Retinol vs Retinoids: Dermatologist Breaks Down the Difference Between the Two

“We know that retinol is weaker than retinoids but why do skincare companies manufacture products with retinol instead of retinoids?” Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Darvin Lim says there’s a good reason for all the retinol love. Even though it’s gentler, retinol can still be a game-changer for your skin, especially if you’re just starting out. But hey, if you need the big guns for stubborn skin concerns, that’s where prescription retinoids come in. Let’s break down the retinol vs retinoid debate and figure out which one is right for you.

TL;DR: Retinol vs Retinoids

Retinol and retinoids are both derivatives of vitamin A and are popular in skincare for their anti-aging and acne-fighting benefits. The main difference lies in their strength and availability. Retinol is a milder type of retinoid and is available over the counter, making it a good starting point for those new to these products. Retinoids, on the other hand, are stronger; they work faster and more effectively but can also be more irritating on the skin. “In large, retinoids are usually medically prescribed whereas retinol doesn’t have the same amount of regulations,” says Lim.

What is Retinol?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is commonly found in over-the-counter skincare products. It’s a bit of a jack-of-all-trades when it comes to skincare benefits. Retinol helps increase cell turnover, which means it can improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone. It’s less potent than prescription retinoids, which makes it a great option for those who are just starting to incorporate vitamin A into their skincare routine.

Retinol needs to be converted by the skin into retinoic acid, which is the active form that actually delivers the benefits. This conversion process makes retinol less irritating than stronger retinoids. However, because it’s milder, it also takes longer to see results. Typically, you’ll start noticing improvements after about three to six months of consistent use.

Who Is Retinol Best For?

Retinol is perfect for those with sensitive skin or anyone who is new to vitamin A products. If you’re looking to smooth out your skin, reduce mild to moderate signs of aging, or tackle uneven skin tone without jumping straight into the deep end, retinol is your go-to. It’s also a good option for those who want to start slow and build up their skin’s tolerance to more potent products over time.

Most Popular Retinol Formulas

There are numerous retinol products on the market, each catering to different needs and skin types. Here are some popular options:

Retinol Serums: Lightweight and easy to layer, retinol serums are great for oily and combination skin types. They penetrate quickly and work well under moisturizers.

Retinol Creams: These are typically more hydrating and suitable for dry or sensitive skin. They provide the benefits of retinol while also moisturizing the skin.

Retinol Eye Creams: Specifically formulated for the delicate skin around the eyes, these products can help reduce fine lines and dark circles without causing irritation.

Related: The Best Retinol Serums of 2024

Pros:

1. Retinol is less irritating than stronger retinoids, making it ideal for sensitive skin and beginners.
2. You don’t need a prescription, which makes it easy to incorporate into your skincare routine.
3. With consistent use, retinol can improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and even out skin tone.
4. Retinol can be used on various skin types and for multiple concerns, from anti-aging to mild acne.

Cons:

1. Because it’s milder, it can take several months to notice significant changes.
2. While gentler than retinoids, retinol can still cause redness and peeling, especially when you first start using it.
3. For severe skin issues, retinol may not be strong enough to achieve desired results.

What are Retinoids?

Retinoids are a broader category that includes both over-the-counter retinol and stronger, prescription-strength versions like tretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene. These are the heavy hitters in the vitamin A family and are known for their ability to treat severe acne, reduce deep wrinkles, and address more significant skin issues.

“Unlike retinol, retinoids do not need conversion to retinoic acid,” explains Lim. This is because they are already in their active form. This means they work faster and more effectively but can also cause more irritation, redness, and peeling, especially when you first start using them. According to Lim, this is because they speed up the skin turnover. “So for example, instead of turning over every 25-28 days, retinoids increase the cell turnover to 18-22 days,” says Lim.

Who Are Retinoids Best For?

Retinoids are best suited for those with more resilient skin or individuals dealing with severe acne or pronounced signs of aging. If you’ve tried retinol and feel like you need something stronger, or if a dermatologist has recommended it for your skin concerns, retinoids might be the right choice for you.

Most Popular Retinoids

Tretinoin (Retin-A): This is one of the most well-known prescription retinoids and is highly effective for both acne and anti-aging. It’s available in various strengths and formulations, so your dermatologist can help determine the best option for you.

Adapalene (Differin): Originally available by prescription only, this retinoid is now available over the counter in a lower concentration. It’s particularly effective for acne and is known for being slightly less irritating than tretinoin.

Tazarotene: This is one of the strongest retinoids available and is typically used for severe acne and psoriasis, as well as more advanced signs of aging. It’s very effective but can be quite irritating, so it’s usually recommended for those who have already built up a tolerance to other retinoids.

Pros:

1. Retinoids work faster and more effectively than retinol, providing noticeable improvements in a shorter time
2. Ideal for serious skin concerns like severe acne and deep wrinkles
3. Backed by extensive clinical research for a variety of skin concerns

Cons:

1. Most retinoids need a prescription, which can be less convenient
2. More likely to cause dryness, redness, and peeling, especially in the beginning
3. Can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, requiring diligent use of sunscreen

How To Get Started With Using Retinol

Starting with retinol can feel a bit daunting, especially if you’re worried about potential irritation. But with the right approach, you can seamlessly integrate this powerful ingredient into your skincare routine and start reaping its many benefits.

First things first, you’ll want to ease into using retinol. If you’re new to this ingredient, it’s crucial to begin with a lower concentration to allow your skin to adjust. Look for products that contain around 0.25% to 0.5% retinol. Apply it once or twice a week initially. This gradual introduction helps your skin build tolerance, reducing the chances of irritation.

Retinol is best used at night. The reason for this is twofold: retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, and it also breaks down in sunlight, rendering it less effective. Incorporate it into your evening routine after cleansing your face. Ensure your skin is completely dry before applying retinol, as damp skin can increase absorption, which might lead to irritation. You may use a hyaluronic acid after cleansing and do a sandwich moisturization method where you apply your moisturizer, then the retinol and another layer of moisturizer on top of it. This is a great technique for those with really dry or sensitive skin. However, the application method will depend on your skin type and the skincare ingredients you’re using with your retinol.

Related: Should You Use Retinol Before or After Moisturizing?

When applying retinol, remember that a little goes a long way. You only need a pea-sized amount for your entire face. Gently spread the product over your skin, avoiding the delicate eye area unless you’re using a retinol product specifically formulated for that region. Some people also like to avoid the corners of the nose and mouth where the skin can be thinner and more prone to irritation.

Patience Is Key

Patience is essential when using retinol. It can take several weeks, sometimes even a few months, to see noticeable improvements in your skin. Don’t get discouraged if you don’t see immediate results. Consistency is more important than frequency. Stick to your routine, gradually increasing the frequency of application as your skin builds tolerance.

If you experience irritation, don’t be afraid to adjust your routine. You might need to reduce the frequency of application or mix your retinol with a moisturizer to buffer its effects. Some people find success with applying a layer of moisturizer before their retinol, which can act as a barrier and lessen irritation.

Everyone’s tolerance to retinol is different, and it’s important to monitor how your skin reacts. If you notice persistent redness, peeling, or discomfort, it might be wise to consult with a dermatologist. They can provide personalized advice and recommend the best approach for your skin type.

Retinol Dos and Don’ts

Dos:

• Do use sunscreen: Retinol can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. Always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day.
• Do moisturize: Keeping your skin hydrated can help reduce the potential irritation from retinol.
• Do patch test: Before applying retinol all over your face, do a patch test to see how your skin reacts.
• Do follow instructions: Pay attention to the product instructions and follow them closely to avoid overuse and irritation.

Don’ts:

• Don’t overuse: More isn’t always better. Stick to the recommended usage to avoid excessive dryness and irritation.
• Don’t mix with certain ingredients: Avoid using retinol with other strong actives like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), and benzoyl peroxide, as this can increase irritation.
• Don’t apply on broken skin: Avoid using retinol on broken or irritated skin to prevent further irritation.
• Don’t skip moisturizer: Always use a good moisturizer to help your skin tolerate retinol better.

Final Takeaway

When it comes to choosing between retinol and retinoids, the decision depends on your skin type, specific concerns, and how your skin tolerates these powerful ingredients.

Retinol is your go-to if you’re just starting out with vitamin A derivatives or if you have sensitive skin. It’s milder, less likely to cause irritation, and easily accessible over the counter. Retinol is perfect for those looking to improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and even out skin tone gradually. It requires a bit more patience, as results take longer to appear, but it’s a gentle introduction to the world of retinoids.

Retinoids, on the other hand, are the heavy hitters. They’re stronger, more potent, and typically require a prescription. Retinoids are ideal for those dealing with severe acne, deep wrinkles, or more significant skin issues. While they work faster and deliver more dramatic results, they can also be more irritating, especially if your skin isn’t accustomed to them. Retinoids are best for individuals with resilient skin or those who have already built up a tolerance with milder products.

Incorporating either retinol or retinoids into your skincare routine can bring substantial benefits. Start slow, use them consistently, and always pair with a good moisturizer and sunscreen to protect your skin. Whether you opt for the gentle approach with retinol or the more aggressive treatment with retinoids, both can help you achieve healthier, more radiant skin over time. It’s about finding what works best for you and sticking with it to see the best results.